Building The Canoe
Molds are set up on the strongback keeping them perpendicular to the centerline of the strongback
and spaced perpendicular to the top surface. This is the most critical part of the setup since it dictates the outcome
of the profile of the canoe. Once this is completed, The stems can be steam bent over the stem molds and clamped to dry. One set will remain on the molds to be shaped and fared with the canoe's profile. The other set can be put aside to be installed after the planking is complete. |
Planking can be done by stapling or clamping them to the molds while gluing. I choose the staple method. Additional clamps maybe required to plank around the bilge areas while contorting the wood. Once the planking reaches around the bilge point, work one side up to the centerline and then the other side to meet up to
the centerline. A chisel and a sight line can be used to cut the centerline for the other side to meet up with. The centerline can be taken off the strongback established when setting up the molds. During the planking process, inlay features can be added to personalize the canoe. It is important to sand and fill the cracks in the hull to prepare for the fiberglassing. Any voids left will create air pockets in the fiberglass when it cures. |
The fiber glassing process is one which you will require the entire day for. (un-interrupted) After letting the glass drape over the finished canoe overnight, trim the access of the glass leaving 2" hanging beyond the edge of the planks. Cut a center cut along the stems up to the point where they end. This will allow the glass to lay evenly around the bow and stern. Start the fiberglassing process by mixing the epoxy ratios carefully and applying it methodically to the hull working from the centerline on one side then switching to the other side. Continue the wet-out process and wait 4 hours to start the second coat, "filling the weave". The third coat will bury the weave another 4 hours later or when the surface can be touched. Once cured, the hull can be popped of the molds and the molds disassembled. A set of cradles should be put into place on the string back to hold the up righted canoe so it can be sanded and glassed. Keeping the work area at 70ºF and properly mixing the epoxy was the key to a successful glass job. |
A good reference book to use is, "Canoe Craft" by Ted Moores. Also they host an interactive web site and forum to resolve any questions you may have regarding the building process. Others who visit the forum frequently have experience in building canoes and can answer the questions you may have. There site is, Bear Mountain Boats |